The city of Ajmer is located in central Rajasthan,
and is held in great reverence by devotees of all communities who call
it 'Ajmer Sharif' (Holy Ajmer). It is here that the mortal remains of
the highly respected Sufi saint Khwaja Moin-ud-din Chishti lie buried.
The Khwaja came from Persia and established the Chishtia order of
fakirs in India. He is popularly known as Gharib Nawaz (protector of the
poor) because he dedicated his entire life to the service of mankind.
His Spartan life spanned almost a hundred years and he embraced death in
solitude while he had withdrawn to his cell for six days, asking not to
be disturbed. The Dargah Sharif in Ajmer is the place where the Saint's
mortal remains lie buried and is the site of the largest Muslim fair in
India. More than five lakh devotees belonging to different communities
gather from all parts of the subcontinent to pay homage to the Khwaja on
his Urs (death anniversary), during the first six days of Rajab (seventh
month of the Islamic calendar.)
The pilgrims who come to seek the blessings of the Khwaja make rich
offerings called nazrana at the holy spot where the saint has been
entombed. The offerings of rose and jasmine flowers, sandalwood paste,
perfumes and incense contribute to the fragrance that floats in the air
inside the shrine. Also offered by devotees are the chadar, ghilaph and
neema, which are votive offerings for the tomb. These are brought by
devotees on their heads and handed over to the khadims inside the
sanctum sanctorum. Outside the sanctum sanctorum of the dargah,
professional singers called qawwals in groups and sing the praises of
the saint in a characteristic high pitched voice. People gather around
them and listen attentively, sometimes clapping to the rhythm of their
instruments.
The Urs is initiated with the hoisting of a white flag on the dargah by
the Sajjada Nashin (successor representative) of Chishtis. It is done on
the 25th of Jamadi-ul-Akhir (sixth lunar month), with the accompaniment
of music. On the last day of the sixth month, the Jannati-Darwaza
(gateway of heaven) is flung open early in the morning. People cross
this gate seven times with the belief that they will be assured a place
in heaven. On the 1st of Rajab, the tomb is washed with rose water and
sandalwood paste and anointed with perfumes. This ritual is called
ghusal. The tomb is then covered with an embroidered silk cloth by the
Sajjada Nashin.
An interesting ritual is the looting of kheer (milk-pudding) which is
cooked in two large cauldrons called degs and distributed to the
devotees as tabarruk (blessed food). On the 6th of Rajab, after the
usual mehfil and the sound of cracker-bursts accompanied by music, the
Sajjada Nashin performs the ghusal of the tomb. Fatiha and Salamti are
read. A poetic recitation called mushaira is arranged in which poets of
all communities arrive to recite compositions dedicated to the Khwaja.
The Qul (end-all) on the 6th of Rajab marks the end of the Urs.
At night, religious assemblies called mehfils are held in the
mehfil-khana, a large hall meant for this purpose. These are presided
over by the Sajjada Nashin of the dargah. Qawwalis are sung and the hall
is packed to capacity. There are separate places reserved for women who
attend the mehfil. The mehfil terminates late in the night with a mass
prayer for the eternal peace of the Khwaja in particular and mankind in
general.
